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Angela's Kiss of Shea

Natural hair tips, information and product updates

WATER WATER WATER!​

The only moisturizer there is.

September 27, 2019

DID YOU KNOW? that in reality NOTHING moisturizes your hair except WATER. And that the effectiveness of a moisturizer is determined by the amount of water it contains. One of the main ingredients in any moisturizer MUST be water otherwise it is not a moisturizer. Conditioners, Moisturizing creams, leave-ins, hair lotions, etc. ALL have water in them and therefore are very effective at providing moisture to the hair follicle while also providing the sealing properties of oil. Oil to slows down the evaporation process of the water from your hair and scalp through the environment. No matter now nutrient dense the oil, it will not moisturize the hair. That is why the hair has to be wet or dampened, before applying oils to the hair. Conversely, if oil is applied to dry hair or before water, it will prevent the water from entering the hair follicle and therefore will not get the moisture it needs. Mixing oil and water in a spray bottle is a good way to get the water onto and into the hair follicle and also seal it in with the oi. "But oil and water doesn't mix" you say? Well, you are right! However, when sprayed through a fine mist sprayer, the water and the oil are evenly dispersed, making it easier for the water and nutrients from the oil to enter the hair follicle and penetrate the hair shaft, while allowing the oil itself to coat and the hair strands, thus creating a temporary sealant.  Unlike the hair, the scalp can absorb oils and therefore receive the nutrients in the oil without water. However, without cleansing the scalp regularly (with water), the development of buildup and clogged pores can result, thus inhibiting the scalp from being as healthy as it can.  Out bodies are mostly water so it's only natural that water is the key to healy hair and skin. So, choose your moisturizers and lotions wisely if using commercial brands that have chemicals. Using an all natural moisturizer for your hair and all natural lotions for your skin, or DIY natural ingredients with water is best. 


PETROLEUM JELLY: Good or Bad? You be your own judge.

July 2, 2019

If it was good before the natural hair movement why isn’t it good now? I know my hair didn’t shed, or break off with the use of Royal Crown Hair Dressing or Blue Magic, that was also available in green. I mean my mom applied to my freshly washed and still damp hair then plaited it up on Saturday night before I went to bed. If that wasn’t enough, on Sunday mornings she applied it to sections of my hair as she used a hot straightening comb and curling iron to give me that freshly pressed and curled hairstyle for church. My hair (and hers) grew like grass!

There continues to be great controversy regarding petroleum products for the hair. Those that oppose this product and products containing it argue that it clogs pores, thus smothering the skin and causing hair not to grow, as well attract dirt. Then those advocating it says Their hair loves it, and their hair continues to grow and be healthy using this product and products containing it. Well, lets look at this substance called Petroleum:

Petroleum is a liquid that is found under ground. We call it oil. It can be thick and black as tar, or thin and as water. in 1859 Oil rig workers complained about the sticky waxy substance that was forming on the rigs because it would cause the rigs to malfunction. They called it "rod wax". So, a young chemist, Robert Cheesbrough took some of this "rod wax" back to his lab to refine it and explore it's potential uses. He found that by distilling the lighter, thinner oil products from the oil, he could create a light colored gel. He patent this process in 1872 and thus the process of making petroleum jelly was born. Now, petroleum is used in a lot of skin care products and is recognized by the FDA as a skin protectant.

When it comes to use in hair care products for black hair, there was no controversy until the relaxer was created for black hair. It wasn't a great concern at first, but over the decades and more recently since the "Natural Hair" trend appeared on the scene, it has been reported to be "bad" for black hair. I ask this question. Explain how this product, that has been used on African-American hair since the invention of the pressing comb and maybe before that, can be bad for the hair? True, it has no moisturizing properties, and does not penetrate the hair follicle or shaft. Yet, African-American hair has continued to grow with it's continued use whether assisting in the straightening process with a pressing comb, or to aiding with manageability of our hair. Petroleum Jelly alone will do nothing but create a moisture barrier and seal in whatever is already on the hair, scalp or skin. However, the petroleum products that are created for black hair care are infused with other ingredients that are good for the hair. It's mixed with lanolin in Blue Magic Hair Dress as well as paraffin and lecithin. Also, B&B Super Hair Gro infuse rich hormones, proteins, vitamin E, sage and coconut oil in their product.

When it comes to our hair, petroleum jelly should be used the same way we use oils, lotions, and creams on our skin...right out of the shower or bath. Nothing moisturizes but water. Oils, creams, lotions and Yes!...you guessed it...petroleum jelly seal in the moisture provided by water. Since Petroleum jelly does not contain any water whatsoever, unlike lotions and creams, it should never be used alone on dry hair. It should also be the last step in your moisturizing process and should be used sparingly on the hair. A good shampoo should be used to wash it out and prevent build up.

So...? Could it be as I have always suspected? That Petroleum jelly DOES NOT clog pores, attract dirt and/or weigh down the tresses unless it is being improperly used, and allowed to build up? Could it be simply poor hair hygiene practices and over use that make it “BAD” for our natural hair? Hmmm... I wonder.


Bottom line ladies (and gentlemen)...If it works for you, then DO YOU. Be your own judge for your hair. But let's not label a product bad when the negative effects could be caused by our own misuse and poor hair hygiene practices,


Oh! In case anyone says to themselves "Petroleum is not natural." Stop to think a minute. There are no chemicals used to make it. It is distilled from the crude oil or waxy part of the oil. Distilling removes all impurities and makes a cleaner product. No chemicals are added to maintain any of its sealing properties. Also, Petroleum is a NONRENEWABLE RESOURCE. Meaning the petroleum we have today came from the oil that took millions of years to make below the earth’s surface. Thank you dinosaurs!

Angela Carter

Angela’s Kiss of Shea

SULFATE SHAMPOO: Do or Do Not? That is the question.

June 14, 2019

Hello Naturalistas! 

Since the natural hair movement began the subject of sulfate-free shampoo being bad for natural hair has been a somewhat controversial one. And my research revealed that all sulfates are not created equal. To provide a little information, I thought I would post the contents of an article I found a while ago about sulfates. Now, I do agree that sulfates can be harsh on hair especially if over-used and if the hair is not conditioned after washing. However, I do want to point out that anything we use that has lather has sulfate in it, including and certainly not limited to the soap, body wash, shower gels, and even toothpaste. So, to provide adequate information regarding sulfates, please read the article, and decide for yourselves what's best for you. My goal here is to help educate other naturals those who are health conscious regarding their hair and skin, so the decisions they make are informed ones.


Sulfates in Shampoos – What Are They?

by THEBEAUTYBRAINS on JUNE 30, 2007

https://thebeautybrains.com/2007/06/sulfates-in-shampoos-what-are-they/


Ambarian asks…What exactly are Sodium Laureth Sulphate , Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, Ammonium Lareth Sulphate and Myreth Sulphate . What is their main purposes in a shampoo? Is it true if you buy a shampoo that contains ALS it is not as harsh on you hair . Is it true that these will strip hair of natural oil and moisture hence if you have dry / curly hair it is best not to use shampoo containing these?


The Left Brain responds…We’ve talked about Sulfates in your shampoo before and we encourage you to read this first.

In the industry, these compounds are known by acronyms such as SLS, SLES, ALS, etc. While we cosmetic chemists like to say really long words to describe chemicals, they can hamper conversations. These sulfates are all primary detergents that make shampoos, body washes and other cleansers clean and foam. Without these ingredients cleansing products wouldn’t work nearly as well as they do.

Practically speaking, ALS is just as harsh on your hair as SLS. ALS is the main detergent of brans like Pantene, Herbalessences, Dove and Suave. SLS is used in Paul Mitchell, VO5 and lots of other brands. Of the ones you listed Myreth sulphate would be least harsh (although it is still more harsh than the things you’d find in a baby shampoo).

These ingredients will not strip your hair of oil any worse than other surfactant bases. All shampoos strip your hair of natural oil. That’s how they clean. In this regard, avoiding these ingredients will not be helpful to you. Some people find these surfactants a bit more irritating than others so you might take this into consideration when buying a product with them in it.

If you have dry/curly hair than you can use any shampoo but make sure you use a conditioner afterwards. This will help replenish the oils that are lost.

If you are concerned about stripping natural oils, the only thing you can do is stop washing your hair. But remember the natural oils help capture dirt, dust and pollution that you walk through every day. For clean hair you really don’t want natural oils.


Beauty Brains bottom line

Sulfates are used in many personal care products and are some of the most effective ingredients you can use for cleaning. They often get bad press and the Natural crowd hates them, but they are perfectly fine ingredients. They’re what all of the Beauty Brains use.